The best way to hang sheetrock (drywall) involves careful planning, proper tools, and a systematic approach to ensure a smooth and stable finish.
1. Tools and Materials You'll Need:
* Drywall Sheets: Standard sizes are 4'x8', but 4'x12' or even longer sheets are available, which can reduce seams.
* Drywall Screws: These are essential for securing the drywall.
* Power Drill/Screw Gun: An electric power drill or screw gun is crucial for fastening drywall screws efficiently. Screw guns are designed to set screws just below the surface without tearing the paper.
* Utility Knife: A sharp utility knife is used for scoring and cutting drywall. Change blades frequently for cleaner cuts.
* Drywall T-Square: This helps make straight and accurate cuts.
* Drywall Saw or Jab Saw: Useful for cutting out openings for electrical boxes, windows, and irregular shapes.
* Measuring Tape and Chalk Line: For accurate measurements and layout.
* Drywall Lift (Optional but Recommended): Especially helpful when working alone or hanging ceiling sheets.
* Drywall Knives (4", 6", 12"): Used for applying joint compound.
* Sanding Sponges or Sandpaper: For smoothing finishes.
* Joint Compound (Mud) and Paper Tape: For finishing seams and screw heads.
* Drywall Adhesive (Optional): Can be used in conjunction with screws to provide a stronger bond, reduce screw pops, and help even out minor stud variations.
2. Planning and Layout:
* Measure Carefully: Measure each wall and ceiling, accounting for windows, doors, and electrical outlets.
* Sketch a Layout: Create a simple sketch to plan panel placement, minimizing joints and optimizing material usage.
* Inspect Framing: Check studs and joists for any bows or twists. Trim protruding members or shim low spots to ensure a flat surface for the drywall.
* Hang Ceilings First: If covering both walls and ceilings, always hang the ceiling drywall first. Wall panels should overlap ceiling panels.
* Panel Orientation (Horizontal vs. Vertical):
* Horizontal (Recommended for Walls 9 ft. or shorter): This method often results in fewer seams (about 25% less) and makes them less noticeable and easier to finish, as they are typically at a convenient height (48 or 54 inches off the floor). It also helps to hide uneven studs. Hanging drywall horizontally also provides greater structural strength to the wall assembly.
* Vertical: Often required by fire codes for commercial jobs. It can be easier to install for very tall walls or when working alone. However, it typically leads to more seams, which can be harder to cover evenly and are more prone to cracking.
* Ceilings: Hang ceiling panels perpendicular to the joists to create more attachment points and prevent sagging.
3. Cutting Drywall:
* Score and Snap Method:
1. Mark your cutting line with a pencil and T-square.
2. Score the front paper facing with a sharp utility knife, cutting slightly into the gypsum core.
3. Snap the gypsum core along the scored line by bending the sheet.
4. Cut through the back paper with your utility knife to complete the cut.
* Cutting for Outlets and Windows:
* Measure and mark the opening dimensions on the drywall panel.
* Use a drywall saw or rotary cutout tool to carefully cut out the opening. Some pros hang the sheet over the opening and use a spiral saw to follow the edge of the fixture or framing, eliminating the need for precise measurements beforehand.
4. Hanging the Drywall:
* Ceilings First: Start with ceiling panels, positioning them tight against the walls in a corner.
* Walls: Start with the top row, placing the sheet tight against the ceiling and one wall.
* Use a Helper or Lift: Have a friend or use a drywall lift to hold the panel in place while you secure it.
* Apply Adhesive (if using): Apply drywall adhesive to the studs or joists before positioning the sheet. This can reduce the number of screws needed in the field of the board and help prevent nail/screw pops.
* Screw Placement and Spacing:
* Drive screws into studs, starting from the middle of the panel and working outwards.
* Walls: Space screws about 8 inches apart along the edges of the panels and 16 inches apart in the field (inner part).
* Ceilings: Space screws 7 to 8 inches apart at the edges and 12 inches apart in the field.
* Ensure screws are placed about 3/8 inch from the ends and edges of the panels.
* The screw heads should be driven just below the surface of the drywall, without breaking the paper facing, to allow for mudding.
* Stagger Seams: Stagger seams between rows to increase structural integrity and reduce the chance of visible humps.
* Corners:
* Inside Corners: Butt the end of one panel against the face of the panel on the adjoining wall.
* Outside Corners: Install the first panel so its end is flush with the studs on the adjoining wall. Overlap this exposed end with the panel on the adjoining wall so the corner is fully encased in drywall. Protect outside corners with metal corner bead.
* Avoid Seams at Openings: Do not line up seams with door or window corners, as these can crack.
5. Finishing:
* Taping and Mudding: Apply joint compound to all seams and corners, embed paper tape into the wet compound, and apply additional layers, feathering them out to blend with the wall.
* Sanding: Sand between coats for a smooth finish.
* Prime and Paint: After finishing is complete and dry, prime and paint the walls.